PowerMac G4 (AGP Graphics) Hackintosh Mod

I run two main machines for everything – work and play. I’ve got a MacBook Pro Retina Mid 2015 for my laptop, and a custom built Windows machine for my desktop. I’ve grown to love macOS for getting anything done, other than gaming. Because of that, I use my laptop for everything, even though I have a desktop. My first thought was, “I could make it a hackintosh”, but it’s an AMD Ryzen system, so I can’t. There is progress being made on a Ryzen kernel, but I’m not sure I’d trust it yet for daily use.

Introduction

I wondered if I could cobble together another machine, from some parts I had laying around, and end up with a working intel system that could run macOS. I had a case, RAM, SSD, hard drive, GPU and power supply. Only things missing were a CPU and motherboard. My file server had a Core i7 4790k in it, which is a little overkill for what it’s doing. That was swapped out for a Haswell-based Pentium. Ebay was scoured for the motherboard, and I found an Asus Q87 motherboard marked as untested for less than £20. I tthought I’d give it a shot… and bought it.

For a hackintosh, it’s important to find a motherboard which is highly supported under macOS. In this case, I didn’t do that, as things like on-board ethernet, USB, and audio aren’t that important to me. Haswell motherboards don’t always tend to have many USB 3.0 ports, so having that supported in macOS isn’t a big deal, as I ordered a PCIe Mac Pro USB 3.0 card, so I’d have more ports. Sound wise, I use an external sound card on my desktop all the time anyway. I know it works with my MacBook Pro too, so I don’t expect any compatibility issues there.

With most modern motherboards, there’ll likely be a network card onboard that someone has written a kext for. So the likelihood the onboard ethernet works is quite high. If it doesn’t, I have other network cards laying around. Basically, as long as the untested motherboard worked, I was go for building a Hackintosh with it.

The Case

I say I had a case lined up for the project, but I actually had two. I had a Silverstone RL04 lined up for testing. It was a budget case, when i bought it six years ago so I had no chance of keeping it permanently. I had two PowerMac G4s, one a Quicksilver, and one an original AGP graphics model. The Quicksilver in near mint condition and is a prime example of such a machine. The other, isn’t great – it’s a bit scratched up, and the door latch is broken.

I wanted to use one of these for a Hackintosh case, but I had to decide which. If I used the Quicksilver, I’d have a near brand new looking case for it. However, I’d be ruining the faster of my two G4s, and a perfectly good case by drilling and cutting it. On the other hand, If I chose to use the other model, I’d feel less guilty about it. I’d be cutting and drilling a worse off case, and I’d be destroying a much slower G4.

The AGP graphics was the model of choice for the chopping block. I went over to The Laser Hive, and ordered my conversion kit. I wanted to keep the case as unmodified as possible, so I ordered only the basic kit. The difference is that it doesn’t replace the power supply section too.

Installation

In the meantime, while waiting for the kit to arrive, I assembled the system in the Silverstone case. Getting macOS installed and ready, was actually quicker than it is for Windows 10. I used Unibeast on my MacBook Pro to prepare a USB stick with Mojave and the Clover bootloader.

I’m using an AMD RX 570 so I booted straight off the stick, without any boot flags at all. The installer booted, formatted the Samsung 850 Evo SSD, and installed macOS, all without any trouble at all. After booting from the SSD, using the Clover from the USB stick, and going through the initial account setup, I reached the desktop. Then something amazing happened… everything, just worked.

Of course I didn’t have Clover installed on the SSD yet so I ran Multibeast. I decided to install the audio and LAN drivers anyway, in case the Unibeast installer had added those. After a reboot, everything continued to work properly, including iMessage and FaceTime. In no time, I’d been through all my apps that I’ve got on my laptop, and got them setup on the hackintosh too. With iCloud drive syncing my desktop and documents folders, it’s a seamless experience switching between the two systems.

Modding the Case

Stripping it down

Once I knew that the software was all up and running, and seemingly stable, it was time to sort out the case. The first step was to strip out the old G4 hardware from the case. It was just the case of unscrewing and lifting everything out. The only things I kept was the hard drive bracket, and the power button box thing, from the front. Removing the plastic panels from the case made it look quite bizarre.

The latch on the door had never worked on the machine since I got it. With everything stripped from the case, it was quite obvious why. All the hooks at the top of the latch tray were broken off. For me to be able to lock the case, I have to put something though the latch lock at the back, It’s not the most secure system, but since the machine is stationary, it’s effective.

There are some metal parts inside these cases that can be removed to make the PC parts fit more easily. These include the PSU shelf, and the DVD drive cage. The shelf just came out by drilling out a few rivets.

Installing the Laser Hive kit

There are two versions of the kit. One which includes a replacement power supply panel for the back of the case. The other doesn’t include it – which is the version I opted for. The common parts between the two are: a drilling guide, bag of screws, and the rear panel for the motherboard tray.

There’s existing stand-offs for the old motherboard attached to the motherboard tray, but they need to be removed. They just get yanked off with a pair of pliers. After that it’s the case of drilling out the holes for the new stand-offs. Using the template that comes with the kit, it’s a really straightforward process.

As you can see I’vedrilled the holes, and mounted the stand-offs necessary for my particular motherboard. The template has extra holes marked in case you have a wider motherboard. As well as just the motherboard mounting holes, you can see the other holes I drilled in the case too.

Since I’m using the stock power supply mounting holes, the fan will be facing the back side of the case, so I’ve added some breathing holes for that. I added breathing and mounting holes for an exhaust fan on the bottom too, along with standard fan mounting holes for the existing fan vent on the side of the case.

Mounting the back panel is very simple. it’s just the case of aligning the two parts of it then using the provided nuts and bolts to attach it.

Populating the Case

With the case mods all done, installing the components is just like building any other PC. The only difference being that components aren’t located in their usual places. In fact, the whole case opens from the opposite side to usual.

The only modification left to make was the power button board. Like with everything else, it’s easy to do. I just looked up the pinout for the connector online, and wired the appropriate pins for the power button, power LED and reset buttons to the standard pin connectors that are used on ATX motherboards.

With that all done, it’s time to use the system.

The performance and experience

I’ve got a second SSD in the machine, which I’m using to boot Windows 10 for some gaming and other Windows only applications. I’ve been testing some games on it, including some VR games, and I’ve used it for some development of the game for the dissertatiion for my degree. Graphically, it performs as well as you’d expect for a small form factor RX 570. And for the CPU, well it performs slightly higher than the late 2014 5k iMac with the 4790k option in it, due to its better cooling system.

The overall experience of using the machine, especially when pairing it with a Magic Trackpad, feels no different to using a machine like a 2013 Mac Pro with a quad core CPU in it. I’m using a 27 inch 1440p IPS display from BenQ so it’s a similar display to a non-retina 27 inch iMac. It’s just overall, a great experience.

Where it’s found a home

Since my laptop is my main machine at the moment – both at home, and at my office. The hackintosh will be finding its home at my office, as I don’t have a dedicated desktop there as of yet, and if I need desktop at home I’ll have my Ryzen system.

Was it worth building a hackintosh?

Since I had most of the parts for the system already in stock, I can’t really come at this from the point of view of someone who is buying new parts specifically for one. I also used a 5 year old intel platform – Haswell – for the build, so things will possibly be a bit different if you go with something like a 9900k for your own build.

So… coming at this from the point of view of someone who has just mostly cobbled the system together.

2006 Mac Pro (1,1) Mega Upgrade

I bought a Mac Pro 1,1 in 2019, and here’s how it went…

The Machine

The first mac that I ever used was a 2001, 500 MHz Indigo iMac G3. That was back in 2008 when the machine was already incredibly outdated. Later that year, it became the first Mac I ever owned. That iMac is now long gone (with some regrets), due to the fact that I blew up the logic board, long story, but for another day.

The first ‘modern’ (at least at the time) Mac that I ever used was a 2,1 Mac Pro. The Mac belonged to the father of a friend of mine. He is a web developer, and at the time focused on flash websites, 3D animation, and graphic design. He now works for a massively popular online hotel booking platform (which shall remain unnamed).

At the time, this was a monster of a machine which could chew through anything. But now, sadly the dual x5355s in the 2,1 Mac Pro can’t even hold their own against even an 8 year old Core i5 2500k. So I bought its predecessor, the Mac Pro 1,1, in March of 2019. Yes it’s slow, heavy, loud, hot, and gulps power. But I don’t care, I have one; and you know what, it’s a really cool and awesome thing to own. it’s also been a fun experience upgrading it; and surprisingly, it’s actually been a useful machine to own. That’s impressive considering I’ve got three much more powerful and more modern machines. These include a mid-2015 MacBook Pro and a ‘Hackintosh’ with a core i7 4790k.

What I Got

The Mac Pro I bought came from eBay and was listed for only £50. This is a very good price for even such an old machine. Unfortunately, that price was too good to be true as, there was no GPU, only one hard drive sled and a missing PCI slot screw bracket. For an extra £20, I got the ATI Radeon X1900 XT 512MB Graphics Card. This card was one of the most powerful of it’s time and the mid-tier offered by Apple. It was a huge upgrade over the woefully underpowered, and unreliable stock GeForce 7300 GT.

Upon ordering the Mac I came across a listing for 4 drive sleds, which I got for only £10. So at a glance, my Mac Pro looks complete, although on further inspection, the PCIe screw bracket it noticeably missing. The specs of the machine are:

•            2x Intel Xeon 5150s at 2.66GHz

•            2x1GB DDR2 Fully Buffered ECC Memory

•            2x512MB DDR2 Fully Buffered ECC Memory

•            ATI Radeon X1900 XT 512MB Mac Edition

•            250GB Apple Branded WD Hard Drive

It’s not the lowest end model Apple sold – the CPUs could be downgraded to the 5130s for a discount. Also, as previously mentioned the GPU could also be downgraded; to the 7300GT. The RAM appears to have been upgraded after purchase as only the two 512MB sticks are Apple branded. The other two 1 gigabyte sticks are Crucial branded.

The Upgrades

Before purchasing the Mac, I took it upon myself to research the maximum CPUs and RAM that it could take, as well as its support for MacOS updates.

CPUs

CPU support on the 1,1 is an interesting one, technically they only support the 5100 series Xeons. With the latest firmware update it’s possible for it to boot with 5300 series Xeons. However, “About This Mac” will show them as \”unknown\” for the model. The fan profile won’t quite be right either, so they might run a bit hot. For the 5300 series to be recognised correctly, the 1,1 firmware has to be upgraded to the 2,1’s firmware. This works, as the hardware between the two models is almost identical, the only differentiating factor is the software. After the firmware update, the SMC firmware can be modified to account for the new fan profile.

The 5100 series are all dual core chips, whilst the 5300 series are all quad core chips. This is effectively a 2x improvement in CPU performance, so this is an obvious upgrade which will definitely be worthwhile. The fastest 5300 series Xeon available is the X5365, which is a 3.00GHz quad core chip. The Mac can take two of these, making it an 8-core 3.00GHz system. However, these X5365s are about twice the price of the X5355s, which are only 340MHz slower on each core. For half the price, it’s worth the loss, given how much it will actually affect the usability of the Mac. Typically the X5365s go for about £30 for a pair on eBay, and the X5355s about £15 a pair. I found my X5355s for only £10 for a pair.

RAM and Storage

So that’s the CPUs sorted, next up was the ram. Luckily, due to my server situation, the soon to be retired IBM x3650 M1 (7979), donated eight 2GB sticks. Storage wise, I had enough drives laying around to be able to add a 1TB and a 320GB. I also had a 120GB Kingston SSD laying around so it got that too.

macOS

The last part was MacOS, I’ve used hacked versions of MacOS installers before, to install Mojave on a 2008 MacBook Pro, and a 2010 iMac. This was only necessary as both of these machines don’t support the Metal graphics API that’s supposedly required for Mojave. Despite both the 5100 and 5300 series Xeons being 64-bit CPUs, the EFI in both the 2,1 and 1,1 Mac Pros is only 32-bit, which (according to Apple), limits them to Mac OS X Lion (10.7), which is from 2011. Almost no modern software supports Lion, rendering the Mac insecure, and thus almost useless for anything modern.

Unofficially, both the 1,1 and 2,1 support up to El Capitan, with the use of a modified boot.efi file. This enables the 64-bit only OSes to boot on a 32-bit EFI. Before attempting to install any new hardware, I decided to try and get the newest version of MacOS I could installed with the old stuff.

The macOS Upgrade Process

When beginning the upgrade process, I used an app called MacPostFactor to create a USB stick with the modified installer on it. I decided to try installing 10.8 Mountain Lion first, as that is the oldest version of MacOS not natively supported by the 1,1 and 2,1, and so, out of any version it is presumably the most likely to work.

In fact, Mountain Lion installed without issue, as did Mavericks and Yosemite. It wasn’t until attempting to install El Capitan that I encountered any problems. Unfortunately, the installer wouldn’t boot at all. Luckily, it just ended up being the installer, and not El Capitan itself. I found online a patched hard drive image of El Capitan from YouTuber “Hrutkay Mods”. This pre-created image, worked great. It took very little time to copy onto the Mac Pro’s hard drive (using SuperDuper), and all the modifications necessary the modified boot.efi, and any legacy graphics kexts, were already setup.

Newer OS Problems

As wonderful as it is to have a much later version of MacOS on the Mac Pro, there is of course going to be some caveats, mainly two. The speed of using a hard drive would severely hamper the machine’s usability, but that can be said for any Mac of recent years without an SSD. This is why I added the 120GB SSD to the Mac as well as the hard drives. All of my main machines have SSDs, at least as their boot drives, so using any system without one, feels so slow it’s unusable. The other being the X1900 XT, as great as this card might have been with Lion and earlier, it does not fair well with anything newer, as any graphics acceleration has to be disabled for it to be functional at all.

So, off to eBay and Google I went. In the end, I bought an Nvidia GT 640, which is natively supported by MacOS Mountain Lion and later. The only downside to this, is that there isn’t any boot screens when using a non Mac Edition card. This means that if I ever need to get into the boot menu or see the boot screen for any other reason, I’ll need to reinsert the X1900 XT.